DOMAINE LA POUSSE D'OR CORTON LES BRESSANDES GRAND CRU メーヌ・ラ・プス・ドール コルトン レ・ブレッサンド グラン・クリュ 生産地:フランス ブルゴーニュ コート・ド・ボーヌ アロース・コルトン 原産地呼称:AOC. CORTON LES BRESSANDES ぶどう品種:ピノ・ノワール 100% 味わい:赤ワイン 辛口 ミディアムボディ
ワインアドヴォケイト:(91-93) ポイント The Wine Advocate RP (91-93) Reviewed by: Neal Martin Release Price: NA Drink Date: 2021 - 2038 The 2016 Corton Bressandes Grand Cru has a perfumed bouquet with ample redcurrant cranberry and blueberry scents hints of iris and incense developing with time. The new oak (30%) is neatly integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannin quite saline on the entry with a sense of focus and harmony. It became more spicy almost peppery toward the finish which is fine and quite detailed. Excellent.
When I was in Burgundy last year tasting the 2015s there were rumors that Domaine de la Pousse d’Or was on the market. I don’t know whether that is true or not though with a splendid array of holdings in both the Cotes de Nuits and Cote de Beaune it would not surprise me if investors were courting the Landanger family. Returning 12 months later I was met by Beno?t Landanger and informed that he would be taking over from his father Patrick from 1 January 2018. Therefore it looks as if the domaine will not be changing hands but passing to the next generation indeed Beno?t told me that he worked alongside his father for the last five vintages. He told me that they have recently acquired an optical sorting machine passim in Bordeaux but rarely used in Burgundy and have also introduced three wines raised in amphora with minimal SO2 usage in order to express the purity of the vineyard. I did taste these although as I told Beno?t if you asked me to take a bottle to enjoy over dinner I prefer the classic bottling with sulfur and oak. Having been impacted by the frost in some vineyards this inevitably was not as consistent a range of 2016s. There is still a preponderance of black fruit when I would like to see them capture more brighter red fruit perhaps by easing off the skin maceration? As I have mentioned the domaine boasts an enviable portfolio but I often feel that the wines are badgering for attention when there is no need. Anyway I look forward to seeing the direction that Beno?t will take the winery next year. Published: Dec 30 2017
vinous:(90-93) ポイント (90-93) From: Red Burgundy '16 & '15: Superb Vintages Different Styles (Jan 2018) (these vines were harvested at the beginning of October): Good dark red-ruby. More red berries to go with the aromas of black cherry pepper and spices plus a sexy hint of blood peach. Captivating gentle broad wine with dark berry and cherry flavors accented by spices noble herbs and tangy verbena. Rich subtle penetrating Bressandes with fine tannins and noteworthy breadth and verve. Really distinctive soil complexity here. - By Stephen Tanzer on November 2017
Patrick Landanger told me he had very small yields in 2016 but relatively little frost. In his holdings on the Cote de Nuits for example he suffered some frost losses in his Chambolle-Musigny village vines and in Clos de la Roche “but not much elsewhere.” Even in Volnay yields were between 30 and 35 hectoliters per hectare. Mildew was a challenge though. Landanger noted that his vineyard manager asked him to switch from organic to chemical sprays to more effectively address the problem but Landanger refused. Landanger started harvesting on September 26 and picked into October. Although he had done a bit of experimentation with whole clusters in 2015 Landanger destemmed entirely in ’16. Following a seven-day cold maceration Landanger typically carries out two pigeages per day at the beginning of the fermentation then up to five a day during the peak. He allows the cap of the wine to fall slowly which can bring about seven or eight days of post-fermentation maceration. As is typically the case here the ‘16s had been moved to tanks just after the 2017 harvest-or about a month before my November visit. The wines says Landanger feature very clean fruit and he believes that although they will last a long time they will also taste good early. Incidentally Landanger has increased his use of 1 600-liter amphoras fabricated by an Italian company called Terranova. He made special cuvees of his Volnays Caillerets Clos de la Bousse d’Or and Clos des 60 Ouvrees; two of the three amphoras of each were reserved for separate bottlings while the third went into the estate’s “normal” release.
1997年からが新時代の始まり
最先端を纏うヴォルネイの歴史的古参。
かつてロマネ・コンティのオーナーであったデュヴォー・ブロシェ家の所有地の一部が、ドメーヌ・ド・ラ・プス・ドール。1964年、投資家たちにより再構築され、その時に醸造長となったのがジェラール・ポテルであった。やがて、ポテルが株式の半分を取得し、もう半分をオーストラリアの投資家たちが所有していたが、1997年にポテルが急死。ドメーヌは売りに出され、これを購入したのが現オーナーのパトリック・ランダンジェである。
彼は医療機械、とくに整形外科のビジネスで成功した人物だがヴォーヌ・ロマネに別荘をもっており、いつかは畑を買い、この別荘をドメーヌにしたいと夢想していた。そんな折、プス・ドール売却の話を耳にしたという。
手に入れるや否や、200万~300万ユーロの資金を投じて、醸造施設や発酵用の木桶、他の設備も一新。1999年に完成した醸造施設は6層構造になっており、収穫から醸造、樽熟成、瓶詰めまで、ポンプを一切使わず重力でブドウ果汁やワインが流れる仕組みになっている。
ランダンジェが投資したのは設備だけに止まらず、ブドウ畑の拡張も盛んに行われている。
1998年にコルトン・クロ・デュ・ロワ(1.45ha)とコルトン・ブレッサンド(0.48ha)を手に入れ、2004年にピュリニー・モンラッシェ1級カイユレ(0.73ha)。
そして2008年にはシャンボール・ミュジニーのドメーヌ・モワンヌ・ユドロを買い取り、村名シャンボール・ミュジニー(1.41ha)、1級のグロゼイユ(0.52ha)、フースロット(0.42ha)、シャルム(0.19ha)、レ・ザムルーズ(0.20ha)、そして特級ボンヌ・マール(0.17ha)をラインナップに収めた。その代わり、2009年にサントネイ1級のグラヴィエールは売却。
ブドウ栽培はすべてビオロジック農法がとられている。赤ワインの醸造では木桶とステンレスタンクを併用し、7日間の低温マセレーションの後、日に2回のピジャージュをしながら長いキュヴェゾンを施す。樽熟成は1級で1/3、特級で40%前後。トータルで15ヶ月間。白ワインは圧搾後、24時間のデブルバージュを経て、樽発酵、樽熟成。ただしただの小樽ではなく350リットルの中樽を用いる。新樽比率は50%。
ドメーヌ・ド・ラ・プス・ドールのワインはピュアで洗練されている。
果実味、酸、そしてタンニン、それぞれの要素が高次元でバランスよくまとまり、若いうちから十分に楽しめ、熟成にも耐え得るタイプだ。とくにブルゴーニュ大公家が所有し、その後フランス王家のものとなったとされる、このドメーヌのモノポール「クロ・ド・ラ・ブス・ドール」は、力強さとエレガンスのせめぎ合いが面白いワインである。
さまざまなアペラシオンが増えたとはいえ、ヴォルネイを語る上で欠くべからざるドメーヌのひとつだ。
最先端を纏うヴォルネイの歴史的古参が手掛ける、土壌由来のパワフルさと繊細さを併せ持つ特級畑「コルトン レ・ブレッサンド」!
かつてロマネ・コンティのオーナーであったデュヴォー・ブロシェ家の所有地の一部が、ドメーヌ・ド・ラ・プス・ドール。1964年、投資家たちにより再構築され、その時に醸造長となったのがジェラール・ポテルであった。やがて、ポテルが株式の半分を取得し、もう半分をオーストラリアの投資家たちが所有していたが、1997年にポテルが急死。ドメーヌは売りに出され、これを購入したのが現オーナーのパトリック・ランダンジェである。
2018年、パトリック・ランダンジェの息子ブノワ・ランダンジェが当主に就任。エンジニアのバックグラウンドを持ちながら、ワインにも関わり、2014から2017ヴィンテージまで父と共に醸造に携わった。2018年から遂に彼ひとりで醸造したヴィンテージとなるが、ドメーヌが所有するその卓越したテロワールをもつ区画から最高のワインを造るべく、ブノワは“正確さ”を常に追求する。ビオディナミへの転換の他、醸造ではアンフォラを採用するなど、ドメーヌはさらなる発展を続けている。新当主を迎え、今後の進化に目が離せない。
「コルトン レ・ブレッサンド グラン・クリュ」は、特級畑コルトンの中でも斜面下方に位置する巨大なマイクロ・クリマです。赤土の0.48ヘクタールのこの畑からできるワインは土壌由来のパワフルさと繊細さを併せ持つ。生産されるのは1 500本。熟れた赤い果実(カシスと木苺)のアロマで、少しのスパイスの風味によりさらに香り高くなっている特級ワイン。ゆったりと豊かに心地良く口に広がる。包み込まれ良く溶けたタンニンを含むマチエールの濃縮感が素晴らしい。
DOMAINE LA POUSSE D'OR CORTON LES BRESSANDES GRAND CRU
メーヌ・ラ・プス・ドール コルトン レ・ブレッサンド グラン・クリュ
生産地:フランス ブルゴーニュ コート・ド・ボーヌ アロース・コルトン
原産地呼称:AOC. CORTON LES BRESSANDES
ぶどう品種:ピノ・ノワール 100%
味わい:赤ワイン 辛口 ミディアムボディ
ワインアドヴォケイト:(91-93) ポイント
The Wine Advocate RP (91-93) Reviewed by: Neal Martin Release Price: NA Drink Date: 2021 - 2038
The 2016 Corton Bressandes Grand Cru has a perfumed bouquet with ample redcurrant cranberry and blueberry scents hints of iris and incense developing with time. The new oak (30%) is neatly integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannin quite saline on the entry with a sense of focus and harmony. It became more spicy almost peppery toward the finish which is fine and quite detailed. Excellent.
When I was in Burgundy last year tasting the 2015s there were rumors that Domaine de la Pousse d’Or was on the market. I don’t know whether that is true or not though with a splendid array of holdings in both the Cotes de Nuits and Cote de Beaune it would not surprise me if investors were courting the Landanger family. Returning 12 months later I was met by Beno?t Landanger and informed that he would be taking over from his father Patrick from 1 January 2018. Therefore it looks as if the domaine will not be changing hands but passing to the next generation indeed Beno?t told me that he worked alongside his father for the last five vintages. He told me that they have recently acquired an optical sorting machine passim in Bordeaux but rarely used in Burgundy and have also introduced three wines raised in amphora with minimal SO2 usage in order to express the purity of the vineyard. I did taste these although as I told Beno?t if you asked me to take a bottle to enjoy over dinner I prefer the classic bottling with sulfur and oak. Having been impacted by the frost in some vineyards this inevitably was not as consistent a range of 2016s. There is still a preponderance of black fruit when I would like to see them capture more brighter red fruit perhaps by easing off the skin maceration? As I have mentioned the domaine boasts an enviable portfolio but I often feel that the wines are badgering for attention when there is no need. Anyway I look forward to seeing the direction that Beno?t will take the winery next year. Published: Dec 30 2017
vinous:(90-93) ポイント
(90-93) From: Red Burgundy '16 & '15: Superb Vintages Different Styles (Jan 2018)
(these vines were harvested at the beginning of October): Good dark red-ruby. More red berries to go with the aromas of black cherry pepper and spices plus a sexy hint of blood peach. Captivating gentle broad wine with dark berry and cherry flavors accented by spices noble herbs and tangy verbena. Rich subtle penetrating Bressandes with fine tannins and noteworthy breadth and verve. Really distinctive soil complexity here. - By Stephen Tanzer on November 2017
Patrick Landanger told me he had very small yields in 2016 but relatively little frost. In his holdings on the Cote de Nuits for example he suffered some frost losses in his Chambolle-Musigny village vines and in Clos de la Roche “but not much elsewhere.” Even in Volnay yields were between 30 and 35 hectoliters per hectare. Mildew was a challenge though. Landanger noted that his vineyard manager asked him to switch from organic to chemical sprays to more effectively address the problem but Landanger refused. Landanger started harvesting on September 26 and picked into October. Although he had done a bit of experimentation with whole clusters in 2015 Landanger destemmed entirely in ’16. Following a seven-day cold maceration Landanger typically carries out two pigeages per day at the beginning of the fermentation then up to five a day during the peak. He allows the cap of the wine to fall slowly which can bring about seven or eight days of post-fermentation maceration. As is typically the case here the ‘16s had been moved to tanks just after the 2017 harvest-or about a month before my November visit. The wines says Landanger feature very clean fruit and he believes that although they will last a long time they will also taste good early. Incidentally Landanger has increased his use of 1 600-liter amphoras fabricated by an Italian company called Terranova. He made special cuvees of his Volnays Caillerets Clos de la Bousse d’Or and Clos des 60 Ouvrees; two of the three amphoras of each were reserved for separate bottlings while the third went into the estate’s “normal” release.